The Menu Project
by Ellen J. Wallach
You’ve probably never thought about what happens to old
menus. They are made to be
disposable. Used, abused, and soiled by
unwashed hands and random food splatters, they are unceremoniously thrown out or,
more recently, recycled. I’d never thought about them either until two months
ago.
In an effort to purge our possessions for an anticipated
move, my husband arrived in the kitchen with a pock-marked 1950s white
suitcase, the kind that weighs 40 lbs. empty. I had seen it in the basement
over the years, but never knew where it came from or what was in it. He
inherited it twenty years ago when his neighbor was moving. It contained almost 100 menus from the 1940s
through the 1970s. The neighbor “liberated” menus from restaurants mostly in
the Northwest where he lived. This was his collection.
Some are plain. Some are beautiful. Some are works of art.
All are interesting. They are in all sizes and some are shapes- a clown head
for a children’s menu, a slab of steak for the Old Country Kitchen, and an
arrowhead for the Indian Village Restaurant. Each menu is a peek at a culture that existed
40 or more years ago. What did we eat?
What did we drink? How much did it cost?
This is anthropological research I couldn’t recycle. Now what?
Thus, began the menu project- finding homes for
over-the-hill cartes. These were not
pristine beauties. Where to begin? Google. Most of the restaurants no longer
exist. Even extensive restaurant chains have disappeared and so have the
prices!
The Camlin Hotel in Seattle (described in their 1947 menu as
“Smartness in Hotel Accommodation,” had a restaurant with great views, The
Cloud Room. It is no longer a hotel but
part of the Wyndham Vacation Ownership group.
The Cloud Room is now a number of upscale penthouses. The most expensive menu item was Filet Mignon
for $3.25. Coffee was $.10.
Inn at the Quay in Spokane, Washington specialized in
flaming desserts- Cherries Jubilee and Peach Flambe for $1.75. The house
specialty was Tips & Tails- tenderloin beef tri-tips and imported lobster
tails. The price included soup or salad, baked potato, and individual loaf of
bread and coffee. Price? $5.50.
As you might guess, restaurants in the mid 20th
century were featuring a lot of meat, all inclusive meals (salads, potato,
rolls and coffee,) and coffee meant caffeinated. Sanka was decaf. There are menu
items rarely seen anymore: Pineapple
Welsh Rarebit, Flaked Chicken a la King, Finnan Haddie, and Hot Mince with Rum Sauce.
The menus are finding their ways to new homes- the amateur
historian for the city of Palo Alto took three of them; Ivar’s, an institution
in Seattle, is now home to a large menu cutout of The Captain; and the Heathman
and Benson Hotels in Portland have repatriated their menus.
The next time you are out, think about what people in 2070
might say about us. Look at the prices we consider high. I bet you’d rather be
ordering from my menus.
Ellen J. Wallach is an organizational development
consultant in Seattle, Washington. She is fascinated by how people in
other cultures and times live.